So Leute, wenn Ihr Spass daran habt,ein bisschen "english for runaways" !!
(Englisch zum weglaufen---grins)
Wer es versteht weiß wie der Test mit dem Adapter funktioniert
(für unsere Bastelfreunde):
To oversimplify ABS activation method 1 to test the system: verify that the battery voltage is >12.8 volts or this test won't work; charge or replace as necessary put the bike on the center stand, in neutral with the ignition key off, remove the cap and jump the ABS Diagnostic connector's Sky Blue wire to the Black wire (Die Brücke im ABS Stecker von Blau nach Schwarz) find a friend, offspring or wife to help, with the bike on the center stand ----> simultaneously hold both the front and rear brakes on turn on the key when the ABS warning light flashes there will be one pulse felt in the front brake lever and then two pulses at the rear brake pedal your helper will try to rotate the rear wheel; it should rotate for 0.1 seconds then stop, then rotate again 0.1 seconds on the second pulse turn the ignition switch off remove the jumper Congratulations, your ABS system works.
Rotating the rear wheel when on the center stand may set Error Code 25 -- this is not an error or fault, disregard this error message. Because the front wheel was not moving while the rear wheel was turned by hand the ABS ECU thinks that the vehicle is moving but there were no pulses coming from the front wheel. The diagnostics for Code 25 specifically mentions that this will happen if the motorcycle is on the center stand and the rear wheel is rotated.
To oversimplify ABS activation method 2 to test the hydraulic system: verify that the battery voltage is >12.8 volts or this test won't work; charge or replace as necessary put the bike on the center stand, in neutral with the ignition key off, jump the ABS Diagnostic connector's Sky Blue wire to the Black wire turn the red Run/Stop switch to OFF turn the ignition key on and wait for 2 seconds now press and hold the Starter button for >4 seconds, the engine will not start; release the Starter button simultaneously operate both the front and rear brakes 0.5 seconds later the front brake lever will pulse twice; then the rear brake pedal will pulse twice; after the brake pedal stops pulsing, 0.5 seconds later the bake lever will again start pulsating and continue for ~2 seconds. turn the ignition switch off remove the jumper set the Run/Stop switch back to Run Congratulations, your ABS hydraulic system works.
Deleting The Malfunction Codes Connect the Test Coupler or activate the Test Switch you installed. Turn the key ON. Any recorded malfunction Codes will be displayed. Set the red Engine Run/Stop switch to OFF. Be SURE the Engine Stop Switch is OFF or Bad Things can happen. Push the Starter Button at least 10 times in 4 seconds to delete the Malfunction Code(s). Turn the key OFF. Done.
Dort sind sogar die Prüfmethoden zu Checken der Rad - Sensoren beschrieben! Und sogar das löschen vom ABS-Fehlerspeicher. Das Netz verbindet!!
Viel Spass beim nachtesten!!! (Angaben ohne Gewähr)
Der aufgeführte Testverlauf passt für das "baugleiche" ABS-System an der RP8/RP11. Das System, an der RP13 und folgende, ist von der Bauform etwas anders.Ob der Test da auch so passt---da sind die RP13/RP23/RP28 Cracks gefragt!!!
Extras: MRA-Vario-Scheibe,Zumo 390LM,Bruud-Fussrastenverlängerungen,Daytona-Heizgriffe,Meissner-Kühlerschutz,Meissner-Auspuffhitzeschutzbleche,Gipro-Ganganzeige,SW-MoTech-Lenkererhöhung,Ladeanschluss für Ctek-Batterielader,Touratech-Navikäfig,Touratech-Seitenständerplatte,Umgebaute "Lagraf"- Sitzbank, Givi-Tankring für XS308,Hepco-Becke Topcase-Träger,Hepco-Becker Topcase Serienmässig: 1,3 Megawatt Fluxx-Kompensator für den Worpantrieb!!!!
Die Reifen sind platt------aber Gottseidank nur Unten!!!
|